Upper Mustang Trek

Touch down in the chaos and color of Kathmandu. As soon as you exit the terminal, the humid energy of the city hits you. Our representative will be waiting with a private vehicle to whisk you through the traffic to your hotel in the heart of Thamel.

This isn’t just a transfer; it’s your first taste of Nepal’s sensory overload—dodging rickshaws, motorbikes, and incense vendors.

Once you check in, the rest of the day is yours to recover from jet lag. We recommend walking the narrow streets of Thamel to check your gear or grabbing a cold Gorkha Beer at a rooftop bar. Tonight, we meet for a mandatory full trip briefing.

We will check your equipment, introduce your guide, and collect your original passport, which is required for processing the Upper Mustang Trek permit tomorrow.

While you explore the UNESCO World Heritage sites of the Kathmandu Valley, our team is behind the scenes, navigating the bureaucracy at the Department of Immigration.

The Upper Mustang Trek requires a Restricted Area Permit (RAP), which can only be issued with your physical passport in hand.

While we handle the paperwork, you will visit the “Monkey Temple” of Swayambhunath, perched on a hill overlooking the city, and the massive white stupa at Boudhanath, the center of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal.

This day is essential not just for permits, but also for letting your body adjust to the local time and environment before we head into the mountains.

In the late afternoon, we return your passports with the freshly stamped permits, ready for the journey north.

We hit the Prithvi Highway early, aiming to beat the morning traffic exiting the valley. This 6–7-hour drive is an adventure in itself, winding along the banks of the Trishuli River.

You’ll see white-water rafters battling the rapids below and terraced farms clinging to the hills above. We stop for a local lunch of Dal Bhat (rice and lentils)—fuel for the days ahead.

As we approach Pokhara, the landscape changes drastically; the air gets humid, banana trees appear, and the massive wall of the Annapurna range dominates the skyline.

Machhapuchhre (Fishtail) stands like a sentinel waiting for you. Spend the evening by the calm waters of Phewa Lake, enjoying the last bit of luxury and a solid meal before we head into the wild.

The adrenaline starts now. We take an early morning flight that threads the needle between two 8,000-meter giants: Annapurna and Dhaulagiri.

Sit on the left side of the plane for the best views. The 25-minute flight drops you onto the windy airstrip of Jomsom, the district headquarters.

The landscape is instantly different—arid, rocky, and brown. We begin our trek by walking up the Kali Gandaki riverbed. The wind here is legendary; it picks up every day around 11:00 AM, blasting dust through the valley, so sunglasses and a buff are mandatory.

We push through to Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang. This medieval village, with its mud-brick houses and dark alleys, feels like a movie set.

We verify our special permits at the police checkpoint here, officially marking the start of the restricted zone.

Today, we officially enter the Restricted Area of the Upper Mustang Trek. The trail follows the eastern bank of the Kali Gandaki, climbing over ridges to avoid river crossings and dropping back to the riverbed.

You will see the famous red sandstone cliffs and the first of the sky caves—inaccessible holes punched into the rock face high above. The walking is tough as the terrain is loose, dry, and exposed to the sun.

We pass the village of Tangbe, known for its whitewashed houses and intricate apple orchards, before reaching Chhusang.

A final steep climb across a bridge and up a rocky slope brings us to Chele, a village perched on a ridge with commanding views of the valley we just conquered.

The culture here shifts distinctly towards Tibetan; you’ll notice sheep horns placed above doorways to ward off evil spirits.

Get ready for a physical challenge. The climb from Chele is steep and relentless, taking us up to the Taklam La Pass (3,624m).

From here, the views of Tilicho Peak and Damodar Danda are spectacular. We descend slightly to Samar for lunch, a village that serves as a historic horse caravan stop.

The afternoon pushes us harder. We traverse cool streams and juniper trees before tackling the ascent to the Yamda La Pass (3,850m). The air is thinner here, and you will feel it in your lungs with every step.

We finally descend into Syangboche, a tiny settlement that feels incredibly isolated under the vast Himalayan sky.

The accommodations here are basic, reminding you that you are far from the commercial trails of the Everest region.

The landscape today turns alien. We climb to the Nyi La Pass (4,010m), the highest point of the trek so far.

From the top, you are surrounded by the raw, multi-colored geology of the Mustang region—bands of red, gray, and yellow rock that look like a painted desert.

We descend into the Ghami La pass and then down to Ghami village. Ghami is the third-largest village in the Lo region and is surrounded by extensive fields of buckwheat and barley, which provide a shocking patch of green against the red cliffs.

The sheer scale of the barren hills against the deep blue sky is a photographer’s dream. The wind will likely be howling by the time we reach the teahouse, so bundle up immediately upon arrival.

Leaving Ghami, we walk past the longest Mani wall (prayer stone wall) in Mustang—over 300 meters long.

Legend says it represents the intestines of a demon killed by Guru Rinpoche, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism. Remember to walk to the left of the wall (clockwise) in respect of Buddhist tradition.

The trail climbs steadily to the Tsarang La Pass (3,870m). As you crest the pass, the village of Tsarang appears below, dominated by a massive five-story white Dzong (fortress) and a red Gompa (monastery) perched precariously on the edge of the Kali Gandaki gorge.

We descend to explore the village. The library in the monastery here is centuries old, and if the monk is present, you might get a glimpse of the ancient texts and thangkas preserved in the dry desert air.

This is the day we reach the objective of the Upper Mustang Trek. We trek across the desert plains of Tholung, with the view of the Lo Manthang walled city slowly revealing itself in the distance.

To the north, the border of Tibet is just a day’s walk away. We cross the Lo La Pass (3,950m), also known as the “Windy Pass,” where you get your first full panoramic view of the walled capital.

Descending into Lo Manthang feels like stepping into a different century. The King’s Palace stands tall in the center. We check into our teahouse, which will be our base for the next two nights.

Unlike other villages, Lo Manthang is a maze of walls and homes, bustling with local traders and monks.

Today is for exploration. We don’t just stay in the city; we head north to Chhoser. You can choose to hike or hire a local pony (highly recommended for the experience).

We visit the Jhong Cave (Sky Cave), a multi-story tunnel system carved into a cliff face that was used for burial, meditation, and hiding from invaders centuries ago.

It is a vertical labyrinth that requires climbing ladders and squeezing through tunnels—not for the claustrophobic! Back in Lo Manthang, we visit the three major gompas: Jampa, Thupchen, and Chode.

These house massive clay statues and intricate mandalas that are currently being painstakingly restored by Italian artisans. In the evening, wander the city walls and watch the herds of goats returning from the hills.

We leave the capital, taking a different route back to ensure you see new terrain. We climb up to Chogo La (4,280m), the highest point of the entire Upper Mustang Trek.

The altitude is real here, so we move with a steady, rhythmic pace. The trail descends sharply to Drakmar. The cliffs here are a vibrant, deep red—more intense than anywhere else in the region.

Local folklore says the red color comes from the blood of a demon defeated by Guru Rinpoche.

The wind in Drakmar can be fierce in the afternoon, often creating dust devils that dance across the valley floor.

It’s a harsh, beautiful environment where you truly feel the Himalayas’ isolation.

We start early to beat the wind. The trail descends, passing through more agricultural land where locals fight the arid climate with intricate irrigation channels.

We partially retrace our steps near Ghami, then head toward Ghiling. The views of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri on the horizon are stunning, providing a stark white contrast against the brown and red earth under our feet.

Ghiling is a quieter village, and the monastery here offers a peaceful retreat. The evenings are getting warmer as we drop in elevation, but the dry air remains.

We spend the evening exploring the village, spinning the prayer wheels, and enjoying a hearty meal of Tibetan bread and curry.

The return journey feels faster now that our lungs are fully acclimatized to the thin air. We tackle the passes of Syangboche and Chele again, but in reverse; the views offer a completely different perspective, looking south toward the Annapurna massif.

The descent can be tough on the knees, so trekking poles are essential today. We end the day in Chhuksang. This village is unique for its location near the confluence of the Narshing Khola and the Kali Gandaki.

You can see distinct caves high on the cliffs across the river. Enjoy the warmer temperatures and the thicker air—your body will thank you for the extra oxygen tonight.

This is the final day on the trail. We trek back to Kagbeni, officially exiting the restricted area.

It’s a strange feeling leaving the “Forbidden Kingdom” and returning to the Annapurna Circuit trail where other trekkers are just starting their journey. We continue down the windy riverbed to Jomsom.

The walk is flat, but the wind is a constant opponent, pushing against you as a headwind. Reaching Jomsom feels like returning to a metropolis after the isolation of Lo.

Tonight, we celebrate with the crew—Marpha Brandy, made from local apples, is the specialty you must try to toast the completion of your trek.

We take the early morning flight back to Pokhara. The sudden transition from the arid, brown cliffs of Mustang to the lush, green humidity of Pokhara is jarring in the best way possible.

A hot shower, clean clothes, and a real coffee await. The rest of the day is free for you to relax, get a massage for your tired legs, or simply sit by the lake and reflect on the journey to the border of Tibet.

In the evening, the lakeside comes alive with music and lights, a stark contrast to the silent nights of Lo Manthang.

We board the tourist bus or private vehicle for the drive back to Kathmandu. Use this time to edit your photos, sleep, or watch the river flow by.

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, we will transfer you to your hotel. In the evening, we host a farewell dinner at a traditional Nepali restaurant with a cultural show to celebrate the successful completion of your Upper Mustang Trek.

It’s a time to share stories, exchange contact information with your guide, and enjoy one last Nepali feast.

Your 17-day journey to the Last Forbidden Kingdom comes to an end. Depending on your flight time, we will transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport three hours before departure.

You’re leaving Nepal, but the dust of Mustang, the taste of salt butter tea, and the memories of the walled city will stay with you forever.